Built on a hill between 1907 and 1926, the roads that wind up to the top are connected by picturesque staircases that shortcut past enviable backyards. Every house is different and residents put their all into their patios, decorating them with garden gnomes and miniature windmills. There’s even a local grocery store just like Amélie’s, on rue du Capitaine Ferber, and old- fashioned storefronts with gorgeous typography. As for a preferred scenic route? I don’t have one. Dive down every staircase, poke your head round every gate and get absolutely positively lost on this lea
